Air Intake

• If I do a body lift replace 13x2 filter with K&N 13x3, maybe
• flower pot style K&N filter charger once I go to SEFI
• Look into fitting a detachable snorkle

• When I first got my bronco I figure I would put several thousand dollars just into body work and a nice paint job. However now that I've gone wheeling I realize that I don't want myself be worried about my pretty paint job to stop me from attempting difficult trails. The body will hold together for years to come. So rather than having the paint and body work professionally done I do it my selflikely next spring.

• Front bumper will likely be custom made and have a pre-runner look but, have a square tubular main section and be fit for a 2" body lift. If I go with custom it will also have a class II hitch, D-rings or top mounted tow hooks, fender guards, winch mounts, and black powder coat paint
• Rear bumper will have the same looks at the front and be fitted for a 2" body lift. It will have a swing away tire carrier which can be locked close or at 90 degress open. It will have D-rings or tow hooks and a class II or III shunken hitch. It possiblely will also have mounts for gas cans and my hi-lift jack.
• Electric winch likely a Warn 9500i although the ramsey and superwinch equivlents are starting to look nice too.

• Add a 2" body lift and new body mounts.
• Paint the frame with POR-15
• Have the rest of the bottom under coated or used POR-15
• Reenforce the area where the PS box mounts to the chassis

• I didn't think I had cooling problems until I took it offroad. The stock 302 bronco radiator is not big enough for my 0.030 over 351W. Once I find out who the real winner of the copper vs. aluminium radiator debate is I'll pick up the best model and go with that.
• Fix and reinstall the fan shroud when I have the chance.
• For even more cooling I'm thinking of adding one large or two small electric fans up front
• Other possible ideas would include coolers for the power steering pump and engine oil.

• Gut and add all the silly analog gauges I want. fuel x3 or switchable, adjustable speed, tach, oil pressure, current, camber angle, fuel pressure, engine temp.,dual trip odometer, odometer, clock, radar. And maybe air pressure and temp for each tire, vacuum pressure, tranny and diff temps. Everything will be sealed to be water tight! This will be designed much later
• At the same time install a better heater, maybe from Heatercraft

• Get new lock cylinders installed
• Refit pop-out window on driver side. Replace passenger side pop-out windows with one of red door.
• Replace door pad with black ones or black them if possible
• Recover door panels probably with a water resistant black vinal
• Try out door inserts and play with adding custom doors and windows.
• Install the mirrors from my old doors or get new ones just like them.
• Weld in reinforcements were the window frame meets the door

• Modify my centech wire kit with all planned acessories and install it
• Install watertight second fuse box in engine compartment for extra acessories
• Buy a rubber boot for distributer cap
• Install the battery Frank had somewhere in the bed.
• Replace main battery wires with 1 gauge wire.
• Install relay/switch system for the dual batteries
• Replace wiper motor with lower profile wiper motors (need room for roll bars). Also try to get an intermitent switch
• Powermaster recored 3G 225 Amp alternator

• Add in a centerforce duel friction clutch to get rid of lingering clutch chatter.
• Clean up engine.
• Repaint the valve covers
• Inspect the oil pan for leaks and see if it needs to be replaced.
• Install an York air compressor for air lockers plus other stuff. Try adding a 2.5 gallon airtank under the hood as well
• Long term plans are to convert over to SEFI. I would be keeping my block but I would be getting 5.8L Fuel injection. Would like to go with Mass Air over Speed density if it exists for the 5.8L. May have to go to a special camshaft. When I get to this point I will upgrade the ignition system as well. Also if I go with Mass Air I will likely do the exhausts headers as well since I will need an O2 sensor there. Going to FI will also force me to upgrade my gas tanks.

• Trick out exhaust pipe to follow same path they do now but raised up between the chassis and body and have the exit just in front of the rear wheel well.
• Add headers when I feel like blowing money.
• Stick an H-pipe either in front or behind the mufflers. This should offer a little more low end power and cut down and maybe elimate the slight backfiring sound when I am down shifting. This backfiring is due to the pipes being shorter than stock and the cold air meeting the hot and going pop. It's not a problem though

• Install ARB air locker or possibly OX cable locker
• If I ever start snapping axles I move to Moser HD axles
• No plans to replace Dana 44
• No plans to change the 3.54:1 gearing. I want good highway performance too. Change T-case before this
• However if I start snaping strong axles every other major trail run than I'll go to a Dana 60 or reverse Ford 9" with 35 spline axles

• No changes for now
• Install hi-performance pads on the next change
• At some point I may do Todd Z. conversion to the bigger calipers. He just figure it out I'll wait to see how good it works.

• Shock hoops that can take take two shock behaind the coil
• Dual Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks on each side
• Install wristed radius arm. the twister arm set up atBC broncos looks the nicest so far
• Replace my coils with linear rate coil like from BC broncos

• Sell 23 gallon tank to Jan in May and buy the BC Broncos 25 gallon tank which should mount much easier with my body lift. It goes for $380 with the skid plate.
• Install tank switch (or make sure it works) Upgrade to three way switch later
• Install fuel pressure regulator for off camber situations, once I go to SEFI swap this out for a fuel aculmulator.
• While designing the nerf bars I'll keep in mind the room needed for the fuel tanks. If I need to sacrific some volume for better placement of the nerf bars then I will do that. It's possible I may need to have custom tanks made to fit in these areas. The passanger floor will be cut to allow room for the third tank. I've I don't have to sacrific volume I could likely get 12 gallons out of each which would bring my total running fuel capacity to 49 gallons. Humm lets try for 12.5 gallon on the aux. just so I can get to an even 50 :)

Wild Horses
• Have Line-x or Rhinoline apply spray on bedliner to cover bed and front floors
• Replace the tunnel cover and shifter boots.
• Install a custom tool box right behind the front seats. This will house the spare battery, stereo amp, and tools. Make a water resistent hole for an exhaust fan for the amp. The box will go from pole to pole be between 6"-10" from front to back and about 12" tall

• Install ARB air locker or possibly OX cable locker
• Convert to 31 spline axles and maybe full floater axles as well
• No plans to replace ford 9" with Dana 60, or increase the width of 9"
• No plans to change the 3.50:1 gearing. I want good highway performance too. Change T-case before this

• Get a longer driver side e-brake cable once when I do the body lift. No need to convert to disc in the rear. I already have the largest drums offered(11x2.25). Get a tension spring for the ebrake system

• Install 11 or 12 leaf soft springs for the rear
• Dual Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks on each side
• Decide on mounting postition for rear shock and put them in. Debating on three location.
  1. "Stock Plus" like the Stroppe broncos
  2. Under the bed like the Cross Enterpirse model
  3. Enlarge the wheel wells for long travel type from WH
  4. Less agressive version of the WH rear hoops by James Duff
• Leaf spring pivots appear to degrade on-road performance. o will not be used. Same goes for lift blocks too.

• Install smittybuilt front roll bars to extand from current ones (e-brake peddle and wipers may need to be moved).
• Install addtional center supports and reinforce cage where possible.

• Install Recaros now but replace with kick ass seats that can take a 4 point seat belt
• Pull the 3 point belts out of the dodge and use them first

• Get a larger steering wheel. Like that GT T-spoke one.
• Replace turn signal set up with spare.
• Replace inverted-y with HD over knukle t style bar. like from performanceunlimited.com
• Get a stronger steering box if stock one breaks
• get a saginaw steering pump if current one brakes.
• Install a radiator for the steering pump
• Once the body lift is done if I don't like the postition of the steering wheel install a tilt column (maybe shoot for telescoping movement as well)

• Install a cd player (maybe my eclipse) and sealed quality coax speakers in the kick panels. Power it with my ADS 4x40 amp. Install small sub behind the driver seat.
• Also stick a CB and police scanner in some where.

• Convert J-shift to WH twin stick($150)
• Possibly add lower gearing. Cold duck maybe or add a NP203 range box or upgrade to Atlas II if it breaks

• Possibly change over to a 5-speed NV4500 which has a 5.21 1st, 0.73 5th and I believe all the gears are synchro, however the ZF is a much cheap swap, BC Bronco will be stocking adapters soon.

• Pick up a set of snow tires and smaller steel rims
• Buy new axle covers for rear rims or get the rust off the old ones.
• After the bodylift is done and maybe the axle improvements go to 35x12.5 tires

• Create lockable toolbox for under the hood. Should be padded so I don't hear my tools don't go clunk clunk
• Adequate wrech, socket, and screw driver set, hammer other common tools.
• Buy and shovel and axe and mount opposite to jack.
• Buy a portable welding kit and carry some extra metal around too.
• Axles if I go to full floaters
• Fire Extinquisher(s)
• Several inner tubes, Gallon of oil, antifreeze, power steering fluid

• Sand and paint hard top black.
• Install new headliner
• Replace weather stripping if needed.